Walking on volcanoes: celebrating 6 months on the road

The day we hit the half way mark of our trip was a special one.

6.30am is an early start and 2 degrees is blooming cold to suffer for something we weren't even sure we could do that day due to a rotten weather forecast. But up we got to do the 20km tough hike touted as the best day walk in New Zealand - The Tongariro Alpine Crossing - also known to the locals as 'The Crossing of Death'.

The crossing passes over the volcanic terrain of the multi-cratered, active volcano, Mt Tongariro, and also passes the eastern base of Mt Ngauruhoe. We heard it was a bit like landing on the moon, and I felt very under prepared!

In my rucksack I packed all the layers I own, including an extra pair of socks that today would double up as mittens if needs must. We were to climb up to 1,900m above sea level and it was already cold at 600m. What's more, there had been fresh snowfall the day before and we would be less than 400m from it.

Yes, yes it could.As we wiped the sleep from our eyes and drove to where we were to catch the minibus to the start, we eventually realised that the sky was clear and the sun was shining down on the spectacular landscape. Could this be our lucky day?

6 months to the day since we had left home, we were to hike over an active volcano - strangely, this day fell on a leap year, otherwise we wouldn't be able to celebrate our half way mark at all as we left on the 29th August.

It was so clear our bus driver, Steve, said it was just one of ten days like it all season as he eagerly pointed out the snow-capped peak of Mount Taranaki some 200kms away.

We could also see the snow up on the three volcanoes in the park: Tongariro, Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe. I felt quite giddy, the kind of giddy when travel moments like this take our breath away.

Our luck almost ran out as we got stuck behind a group of school boys who were dragging their heels under the enormous backpacks they had to wear. But, right from the start, there was a real sense of camaraderie between the trampers, as we made various amusing attempts to run past the already-flailing school boys to get ahead. And get ahead we did, now walking with a Canadian couple, Ems and John.

The most active of the volcanoes, Mount Ngauruhoe (which, geographically is actually considered to be a large vent of Mount Tongariro - incase there's any geographers reading this!), last erupted in 1975, and as we walked on volcanic soil and rock, we could see past lava flows layered ahead of us, with the lava monster, Ngauruhoe, looming behind.

It was nothing short of spectacular, and the best was yet to come.

We climbed the Devils' staircase, hundreds of steps cut into the side of the rubble and lava. They really were the work of the devil, but the view from the top was encouragement enough.

In front of us was Mount Ngauruhoe (Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings - some trivia for you, as the top of the volcano is heralded as sacred by the Maori people, the movie makers didn't film the top and superimposed another volcano top), to one side was Mount Tongariro and in the distance we could still make out Mount Taranaki.

We had reached the South Crater, an impressive plain to cross underneath the gaze of of Mount Ngauruhoe/Doom before the final, hard ascent up the Red Crater, which is the highest section of the trek. The ground underfoot is a bit like fine charcoal and you can see why this part of the trek is considered quite dangerous in high wind. It's bit of a slog and very steep in places - no handy staircase here.

The volcanoes and the inherent geothermal activity which comes along with it have created a spectacular landscape of steaming fissures and brightly coloured lakes.

The crater itself looks very demonic with huge vents that belched sulphuric gas. In fact, as we reached the top and looked around at the endless volcanic landscape, steam was rising from the ground, creating a suffocating, rotten egg smell when the wind changed direction and blew it in our faces. Even the ground was warm to sit on as we rested our legs atop the Red Crater, left dumbfounded by the view.

Apart from having warm bottoms, it was cold up here as the icy winds licked at our faces so I was glad I had decided to wrap a scarf around my head to protect my ears from the cold. A volcano is NOT a catwalk.

We had been warned that this beautiful weather would change in the afternoon, and decided the 2 hour side trip to see the opening vent of Mount Tongariro was probably pushing our luck. And we were being lured by the jade and emerald lakes down the steep slope, which could only look the piercing under blue skies.

Ems and I falling down. The slightly treacherous descent down the other side is softened by the spongy volcanic ash and soil, which is good as just as I was laughing at our new friend, Ems, falling on her bum and sliding down, I then wobbled, lost my balance and followed her down. If only we had caught it on camera, we'd be £250 better off courtesy of You've Been Framed for sure!

The fiery black and red beneath our feet was perfectly offset with the intense blue of the Emerald Lakes and the deeper blue of the Blue Lake in the distance. Every now-and-then you can see bubbles coming to the surface of the Emerald Lakes and there was an even stronger whiff of bad eggs.

We watched one man put his whole hand in, which Med said was probably a bad idea due to the sulphur content, but he then went to put his own little finger in. How often in your life do you get to sample the water in the midst of a volcano?

We got close to one of the vents and saw the bubbles of boiling water that we spewing steam into the chilled air.

After walking across a barren, moon-like expanse, we stopped to eat our packed lunch (cheese and pickle sandwiches again, what else?) aside the Blue Lake, moving on again before muscle rigamortis struck. We were only half way after 3.5 hours of walking.

On from the Blue Lake the view into the valley slowly swings into view with a spectacular vista down into farmlands and off in the distance is Lake Taupo. The mist that had threatened to ruin the day was slowly rolling in, mingling with the steam from the hot springs.

We walked the long, winding walk, through forest and down to the car park at the end of the crossing - somehow walking downhill can be more hard work than going up. Thankfully, we were happily chatting to new friends, adding Canada on our list of places we have to see on a future adventure.

With sore feet, knotted hair and wet socks, after a trip by minibus back to the village, we went for a celebratory beer. Our luck continued, we had already booked a car park spot outside a hostel in Lake Taupo, which meant one thing: a shower! What's more, Med had promised to take me out for a slap up meal for our 6 month traveling anniversary - and we had certainly earned it.