Big and Baby Taj

When you think of India, you think of the Taj Mahal, which the Indian's will tell you is one of the seven wonders of the world (it isn't). But the city of Agra where is stands is somewhat overlooked.

My plan to bypass Agra (until later), for Lucknow was put on hold for the day as I was unable to make it through the maze of India's northern public transport network until the following day. I took this as a gift to see Agra, and realised that Agra boasts a little more than just the Taj.

We headed to the Red Fort, the rouged cousin of Jaipur's Amber Fort. Another triumph in architecture from India's glory days that we would have appreciated more if there were proper signs! From here, I got my first glimpse of the Taj. The creamy, marble domes (yellowing from pollution) had an ethereal presence on the sparse horizon and everyone's gaze was transfixed.

I wanted to get closer to this tombed monument,

which my own grandfather had caught site of on a 4 day train journey from Karachi (now in Pakistan) to Kanpur, near Lucknow - my next stop.

Allured by its 'cute' name, we headed to the Baby Taj. Despite being, well, just a baby, this monument on the edge of the holy Yamuna River was a sight in its own right. And the best part was having to put on white, cotton booties to protect the stonework from our destructive feet.

Next, we headed to the 'backside' of the Taj Mahal, as the 'frontside' isn't open on Fridays. Through the beautifully laid out gardens, the close-up view of the Taj was breathtaking. It towers over a wasteland, frequented only by water buffalo and a few local people. It was incredibly peaceful and every bit as magical as I had anticipated.

We then headed to the other side and found the highest rooftop cafe (naturally, with the slowest service) to watch the sun go down on this spectacle. All around, the rooftops of Agra were alive with people - and a sprinkling of monkeys. Children and families launched handmade kites into the air, where they dashed and dived in front of the Taj and the hustle and hassle of the street was out of reach. Pure, unforgettable bliss!