Thursday 27 May 2010

Roasting in Rajasthan

Rajasthan, the desert land of India, is not a place you want to be during a heatwave. But to Udaipur I travelled - a whitewashed, fairytale city that brought a welcome change of pace, and a throat infection.

And boy, it was hot! As I wandered through the winding, disorientating streets, every breath I took was hot and dry. I had never experienced heat like it and my befreckled body felt the
strain. The lake, which engulfs the majestic lake palace, was also a victim of the heat - with much
of its bed exposed, moss-green and spongy.

Despite the heat, the people of Udaipur were exceptionally friendly, but clearly bemused by the persistence of tourists visiting the slowly roasting city. Our response was simply "this is the real India" as, after all, extreme weather is just as much a part of the country as its temples and its trains.

Lingering days went by, spent gulping iced drinks and watching children and water buffalo bathe in the depleting lake - the entire scene made enchanting by a hot, dusty glow. Attempts at sight-seeing gave way to a day by the pool, and even watching the Rajasthani folk dancing one evening left us wet with sweat. But we did make an effort to see some of the sun-bleached sights, taking a 'pimped out' rickshaw with huge speakers pumping out a 90s 'Now' album with hits I shamefully knew all the words to.

Jaipur was a similar story, with dust storms sweeping through the 'pink city' by night. Jaipur is the largest city and capital of Rajasthan, but it still manages to retain a good measure of antique charm. The highlight was the spectacular Amber Fort - beholding an ancient, ochre world of Rajasthani Maharajas. It was a lesson in extravagance and our knowledgeable guide painted a picture of the kings who once adorned the group of palaces - some with as many as 12 wives.

After that, there was nothing left to do but head to the solace of a nice hotel pool. The heat was a force to be reckoned with, and I surrendered!

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