Monday 19 July 2010

Elephantastic!

My Dad's Birthday in Sri Lanka was certainly one he (and I) will never forget.

We decided to take a jeep to Kaudulla National Park, a 6,656 hectare forest centred around the Kaudulla tank and part of the elephant corridor.

Late afternoon, we stood up in the back of the jeep for the bumpy journey through the forest, spotting chameleons, storks and jackals as we dodged the low-hanging branches. As the sun
cascaded down, we entered an expansive clearing around the tank.

And we lay in wait.

Numerous small herds of elephants inhabit the park for most of the year (the number fluctuates throughout the year as the elephants move up and down the corridor) and gather together in the evening on the open bed of the tank to graze, drink, bathe and socialise.

Thankfully, it wasn't long until the first trees started to shake and crack as one of herds ambled out of the forest into full view. There were about 20 in the group, with the young being fiercely protected by the older females. They appeared to be completely unaffected by the presence of our jeep and took time to feed on the forage, quite silently.

In the distance, we could see more herds slowly emerging from the dense green as if they had all been waiting for another group to make the first move. No one wants to be the first guest at the party. The numbers of elephants were swelling around us and our jeep slowly moved into new positions so we could see other herds come forward. The drivers were sure to keep away from the lone male elephants who seemed to enjoy their solitude, on the prowl for females.

Our knowledgeable guide suddenly got our attention to point out a new born elephant that was just a few day's old. This was the first sighting of the baby and we were only given snatched views of the little one as he or she was ferociously guarded by all the females in the herd.

We now had around 90 elephants in our view and the evening sun filtered through the cloud-flecked sky, glinting off the surface of the tank and bathing the herds in its gentle glow. We watched on, hypnotized by the spirit of the wild. It is a heart-swelling, dizzying sight like no other.

Reluctant to leave this moment behind us, we headed back as the sun started to set. A storm struck and we had to swiftly pull on the cover of the jeep - watching the fork lightening tear up the sky.

And how do you finish a Birthday like this? A surreal 'party' with your hotel's underworked staff involving a strained rendition of 'Happy Birthday' and a plethora of handshaking - that's how.

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