Sunday 3 June 2012

Sun worshipping on the Isla del Sol

Originating from Cusco, Peru the Inca empire once stretched north to Ecuador, south to northern Chile, east to the coast, and west through the Andes and partway into the Amazon.

Lake Titicaca
Therefore, the Inca tradition, it's tales and ancient ruins thread through some of the most beautiful parts of South America, including the Isla del Sol, in Lake Titicaca (the world's highest navigable lake).

The Isla del Sol is the legendary Inca creation site and the birth place of the sun in Incan mythology.
Inca ruins on Isla del Sol

After a night in Copacabana (sadly, there was no showgirl named Lola, with yellow feathers in her hair), we took a boat across to the island, meeting friends along the way.

Despite being 4000 metres above sea level, the sun beats down and this rather dry, dusty island to give the impression of being in the Mediterranean. The island curves around in a series of little bays, against the shores of which the water shines greeny-turquoise.
La Mesa de Sacrificio

On arrival, we traversed the cobbled streets to visit the little museum in Cha’llapampa, which contains Incan artefacts and treasures from underwater excavations in Titicaca. From there it was a good 30-40 min walk up to the north of the island, snowy mountains shimmering in the lake and donkeys sauntering along the worn pathway.

We visited La Mesa de Sacrificio (Sacrifice Table) a rock table with 12 rock chairs around it symbolising the 12 months of the year (also in the Inca calendar) and the Inca ruins here - a little taster of what was to come in the next week.

Stunning sunset
With friends, we then walked the beautiful pathway from north to south, although it came at a cost. There's an interesting - typically-Bolivia - taxing method at work on the island. At first it's 10 Bolivianos for the ruins and northern part of the island, then another 15 for the central part and, just when you think you're done, you have to pay another 5 to get into Yumani, the southern village.

We were broke by the time we had reached the end of the walk (although, now I think about it, that's less than £3 each - it's all relative!), but not too broke to afford a beer and a well overdue menu del dia.

Even more beautiful sunrise
The views and setting was bliss as we trotted up to the mirador to watch sunset. We started to believe this island really did give birth to the sun when we saw the sun go down and set the sky on fire - the deepest red I've ever seen at sunset.

It was so special we braved the dark and cold for sunrise, which was even more spectacular than sunset, a pink, milky glow turning into a raging rouge behind the white mountains- and we had it all to ourselves this time, with just another couple we had met.

This completed our sun worshipping in the Island of the Sun - I could have stayed for a week for more of those moments.

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